In Part 1 of our Antarctica travel blog, we visited the volcanic caldera of Whalers Bay, Deception Island, South Shetland Islands. In Part 2, we made multiple shore landings and encountered penguins, seals, and endless snow-covered vistas. But as we ventured deeper into the Antarctic wilderness, the challenges and rewards grew greater as we explored new shores and discovered majestic wildlife.
Day 8: Friday, December 6
A bittersweet feeling hung in the air as we gathered for breakfast and exchanged greetings with fellow passengers. Today was our last day for excursions, and while the past few days exploring the peninsula had been unforgettable, there was an undeniable air of melancholy that morning.
We had a 9:30 a.m. call for our final landing at Palaver Point, Two Hummock Island, and I had all the time in the world to bundle myself in layers, ready to head down to the mudroom. But in a rush to apply sunscreen, I accidentally got some in my eyes, causing searing pain. As our call came on the PA, I hurriedly took off my contact lenses so it didn’t irritate my eyes further (and along with it, my sunglasses), put on my glasses, and proceeded to the mudroom to change into my boots and board the zodiac.
Image courtesy: Pranjal Mallick
Image courtesy: Pranjal Mallick
That minor mishap cost me my final landing. The bright sun and my stinging eyes made it difficult to see, and I struggled to stay focused. The trail at Palaver Point was split into two sections. The first led to a colony of Chinstrap penguins, their loud cacophony filling the air. The second, steeper trail led to a viewpoint, but Peter had warned us that the descent would be tricky, with steep drops and heavy ice and snow conditions. I made it to the first stop, constantly rubbing my eyes, and marveled at our first Chinstrap sighting of the trip. But common sense prevailed, and I decided not to continue the climb when I could barely keep my eyes open. I walked back down to the trailhead, and while waiting for P, I focused on capturing shots of the penguins galumphing into the water.
Image courtesy: Pranjal Mallick
That afternoon, we all had lunch together, eagerly awaiting our final excursion: a zodiac cruise at Harry Island, home to various whale species. Though our expedition team admitted they had never anchored here before, having heard great things about the wildlife sightings, they were just as excited as we were.
As we set off on the zodiac, another group pulled up alongside us with a delightful surprise — glasses of champagne and hot chocolate to toast the unforgettable days we’d spent on the Antarctic Peninsula. It was a surreal experience sipping hot chocolate sitting on a zodiac in the heart of Antarctic wilderness, waiting for a humpback whale to pop up right next to you!
Word came through on Marzena’s walkie-talkie that the zodiacs ahead had already been lucky with whale sightings, and we eagerly awaited our turn. What happened over the next 90 minutes was unprecedented and extraordinary. A sudden splash followed by a powerful spout of water broke the stillness. Birds took flight in a frenzy, and then, to our left and right, humpback whales launched their massive bodies out of the water in dramatic splashes. The acrobatic displays were breathtaking — a feeding technique and a testament to their strength. After gliding effortlessly through the water, the whales dove beneath the surface, their tail flukes rising gracefully for one final, majestic view.
Image courtesy: Pranjal Mallick
Image courtesy: Pranjal Mallick
Image courtesy: Pranjal Mallick
As we made our way back to the mudroom for the final time, we were buzzing with excitement. All day, we had silently dreaded the moment we would return from our last excursion — the last time we would shed our expedition gear. While we were thrilled to be done with the layers of clothing and boots, there was an undeniable sadness knowing we wouldn’t need them again. Yet, the way the day ended, and the experience it offered, left us utterly fulfilled, albeit yearning for more. For many on the ship, including P, the final zodiac cruise at Harry Island would remain the highlight of the entire expedition.
That evening, we gathered at the Panorama Lounge for a dance party organized by our wonderful entertainment host, Nicole. What started with Dancing Queen by ABBA ended with Bolo Tara Ra by Daler Mehndi, as passengers of all ages and nationalities shed their inhibitions and joined in the celebration — a celebration of triumph, camaraderie, and joy, filled with both reflection and exhilaration. We danced into the night, our vivacious bartenders also joining us, as the last piece of iceberg disappeared from our sights.
Image courtesy: Pranjal Mallick
“From the icy wilderness to the warmth of celebration, we toasted not just the land we explored, but the bonds we built on this unforgettable journey.”
Days 9 and 10: Saturday-Sunday, December 7-8
All this while I have shared with you stories of our Antarctic expedition — stories of where we went, what we saw, and how we felt. But now is the time where I tell you about the people we met, because, for me, Antarctica will forever be synonymous with the incredible people I crossed paths with on this unforgettable adventure.
Antarctica will be synonymous with Captain Andriy Domanin, whose skillful navigation made it possible for us to visit some of the most remote and awe-inspiring places on earth. It was thanks to him that we had the privilege of setting foot on lands few are lucky enough to experience.
Antarctica will always be synonymous with Peter and his exceptional expedition team, who gave us the lens through which we saw and experienced this frozen wonderland. From being our wake-up call each morning to being the first to hop into every zodiac, Peter led the way at every landing, guiding us through the details: how wet and icy the landing would be, the difficulty of the trails, what to look out for, and how to stay safe while exploring. The rest of the crew made sure we never took a wrong step — helping us in and out of zodiacs, holding our hands, our safety vests, hiking poles, and backpacks as we disembarked. They would rush to the landing site after anchorage, preparing a trail for us in just 20 minutes, standing at intervals to offer assistance as needed, and once the last zodiac had sailed back, they would wrap up operations with clockwork precision and head back to the ship. They also conducted insightful lectures on sea days, expanding our knowledge of whales, orcas, seabirds, and penguins. P and I spent hours at the photo studio, picking Theo, the studio manager’s brain, and I’ll always remember the warmth he exuded and the fascinating conversations we shared.
Image courtesy: Pranjal Mallick
Antarctica will also be synonymous with the fantastic staff onboard, who always greeted us with smiles and never shied away from engaging in a little banter. I could talk endlessly about Gede, our suite attendant, who kept our room pristine after each day of exploration; Polly, our butler, who never forgot to refill our chips and dried fruit; Yusa and Rovan at the Panorama Lounge, who crafted some of the best cocktails I’ve ever had; Jason, who always offered me hot chocolate when I returned from an excursion (and teased me when I refused, saying, “You never say no to coffee!”); Angie, who would gently poke fun at me for often dining alone; Sampath, who always scooped up the perfect serving of ice cream; and Jaspal, Sunil, and many others who shared their life stories with us. When we were out in the ice and sun, they were the ones running the ship, and it’s because of them that our time aboard was just as cherished and memorable as our time in the great white wilderness.
But most of all, Antarctica will be synonymous with the fellow passengers we met onboard, with whom we formed lasting bonds. We met a doctor couple of Indian origin, traveling from London, and instantly warmed to their camaraderie and humor. We met a group of seven 60+ solo travelers all the way from India, guided by their intrepid tour leader S, the founder of the travel company Karevoyage. Two of them stunned us by completing the Polar Plunge with fearless determination. They had so many stories to share — stories of courage, stories of resolve, stories of joy, and occasionally, stories of pain. We bonded with them toward the latter half of the trip and I wish we hadn’t wasted those first 5 days.
We met a gentleman from Switzerland, who invests in an elderly home in Ladakh, and visits them every few years. We met an 86-year-old solo traveler from New York, who never missed a landing and never skipped a hike. If fortitude and resilience had a face, it would be his. We met elderly couples from Belgium, Canada, and New Zealand, whose fascinating life stories left us in awe, making us feel like mere beginners in the art of living. And, of course, we met our friends from Chennai, from whom we gained so much insight, and with whom our bond deepened throughout the voyage.
Image courtesy: Pranjal Mallick
So, as we glided through the “Drake Lake” (yes, we did indeed get lucky!), we used these two days strengthening the relations we had built, spending time with each other, laughing and joking over meals, and playing random games late into the night, all the while wistfully aware that our time together was running out.
In the final days at sea, we honored the onboard staff and bid farewell to our expedition crew. The winners of the photo contest were announced, with a stunning portrait taking first prize, while P’s photo of a whale fluking earned second place (along with three others). The way our new friends cheered for him would even put our “old” friends and family to shame. 😊
As the ship docked at Puerto Williams, the realization hit us hard. The Antarctic expedition that had consumed our lives over the past 10 months, taking us on a transformative — almost meditative — journey over the last 10 days, was over. We left our checked luggage outside the room and took one last tour around the ship, just as we did on our first day aboard. Then we headed to the Panorama Lounge for one final game with the Karevoyage team, staying up well past midnight, cherishing the last moments of our unforgettable adventure.
“We didn’t just explore the Antarctic Peninsula; we ventured into the depths of our own limits, only to emerge stronger, braver, and forever changed.”
Day 11: Monday, December 9
The final wake-up call echoed through the PA system, and it was hard to believe that tomorrow it would be a thing of the past. (On hindsight, I wish I had recorded it to use as my regular alarm!) We glanced out of the window for one last look at the stunning landscape around us. As we gathered for breakfast, laughter and mirth filled the air. Everyone was busy recounting memories of the highlights — zodiac landings, the thrill of encountering a whale, or the joy of watching the clueless penguins waddle by.
Image courtesy: Pranjal Mallick
The disembarkation call came at 8:30 a.m. As we walked down the stairs of the Silversea Silver Cloud, bidding goodbye to the staff and expedition crew, it felt as though we were leaving a part of us behind — a part that was ushered to life by them, a part that went through a life-changing transformative journey over the last 10 days, a part that we were no doubt carrying with us back home, but that would watch our mundane days go by with painful disinterest and long to go back to the wilderness.
Just as we had come, we took two consecutive flights, the first taking us to Punta Arenas, and the second to Santiago de Chile. As we waited for our luggage at the baggage claim area of Santiago airport, final goodbyes were exchanged. Conversations turned from reflections on the expedition to promises of staying in touch and visiting each other. There were hugs and handshakes, and some tears as well, exchanged phone numbers and social media handles. Some of us would go on to other adventures, others to the warmth of their homes, but the bond we shared — however fleeting — would always stay with us. Together, we had seen things that most could only dream of, and in the brief span of this shared journey to the remotest place on earth, we had lived a thousand lifetimes of adventure. The bonds formed here felt different — deeper — than those we build in everyday life. And as we parted ways, we knew that Antarctica had not only given us unforgettable experiences and memories, but had brought us close to people who would always be an integral part of those memories.
Image courtesy: Pranjal Mallick
“The end of an Antarctic expedition isn’t the end of the journey; it’s the beginning of a lifetime of stories to share.”